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Walking the Barrow Way

The Barrow Walk is a gentle discovery of geography, history, and nature both farmed and wild. The Grand Canal-Barrow line was added in 1791 as an extension linking Dublin with the Barrow River and the southeast. There are twenty-three locks between Lowtown-Roberstown in Kildare and St Mullins at the southern end. Each are impressive works of stone and wood, interspersed with humpbacked bridges. Usually, there is a parallel weir where rushing water churns up fleecy forth and a vigilant heron waits for a catch.

Swans, ducks, dragonflies, butterflies, and shrews were plentiful, with rolling fields of grain, ripe as well as harvested. We were rare enough walkers to attract the attention of grazing cattle. Despite dire weather warnings on the radio every morning, we were spared rain and enjoyed fleeting sunshine that regularly threw its magic over the landscape of water, trees, and hedgerows.

As my walking partner, my daughter appropriately taught me to recite Gerarld Manley Hopkins’ poem Inversnaid: appropriate because Hopkins often stayed at Monasterevin, our first overnight, and because the poem celebrates a river’s journey through untamed landscape. “….rollrock highroad roaring down…fleece of his foam…pool so pitchblack…wiry heathpacks, flitches of fern….What would the world be, one bereft/Of wet and of wildness? Let them be left,/….Long live the weeds and the wilderness yet.”

Athy is a busy hub around a nice town square. The Grand Canal-Barrow Line joins the River Barrow at the southern end of Athy, a lovely watery conjunction. We arrived just as a barge used the lock. This was the only time we actually saw a barge use the waterway. In fact, we saw no active boats or kayaks over the six days. We encountered only one other walker. It was nice to have the Barrow Way all to ourselves but also a puzzle that such a lovely facility was barely used at the height of summer.

Our next stop was Carlow town where its impressive stone castle reminds us of its founder, William Marshall. Marshall was the greatest knight in Christendom in the twelfth century, and Henry II’s chief man-at-arms. Because of his long service, Marshall was rewarded with marriage to Isabel, daughter of Strongbow and Aoife. During his lordship of Leinster, he built Hook Lighthouse and Tintern Abbey, practical and spiritual responses to surviving a near-foundering on the coast. Marshall established New Ross and added Carlow as a commercial stepping stone up the Barrow. Despite his widespread influence in the region, Marshall is barely known in Ireland, something that the Norman Millennium 2027 might address.

On we plodded, covering an average of over twenty kilometers day. The best accommodation was at the Lord Bagenal Inn in lovely Leighlinbridge. On the narrow old Main Street, it has what must be the smallest door into what also must be the coziest pub in Ireland. The premises then expands into a classy and capacious hotel at the back, now I suppose it’s front. It is a bizarre but very pleasing architectural conjuration. The dinner and pints were top notch.

Leighlinbridge converges the Barrow Way, the Columban Way, and the John Tyndall Way. Leighlinbridge native Tyndall, incidentally, was a great physicist who discovered the connection between CO2 and global warming. The Columban Way runs all the way to Bangor, commemorating our greatest international missionary who was born on the Carlow-Wexford border. The plan is to extend the route all the way to Bobbio in Italy where he founded a monastery and where he died. Old Leighlinbridge is a short distance west and was the centre of Leinster’s largest monastic settlement in the seventh century. Leighlinbridge is a great base to explore the prettiest parts of the Barrow Way, north and south.

On the Barrow Way at Bagenalstown, we came across the ruin of Rudkins Mill, founded by a Cromwellian soldier in the 17th century. Some of the Rudkins emigrated to the United States where Margaret Rudkin (nee Fogarty, second generation Irish family) started baking specialized bread for her asthmatic son in 1937, selling it to a grocery store in Fairfield Connecticut, and then establishing Pepperidge Farms. Impressed with Belgium’s chocolate biscuits, she produced her own under the Pepperidge Farm brand. She sold the company to Campbells Soups in 1961 and joined its board, the first woman to do so, but kept a controlling interest in Pepperidge Farms for another decade. Today, Pepperidge Farms is one of the largest American producers of biscuits (cookies), breads, and desserts with a revenue of $1.7bn. Margaret was literally the proverbial smart cookie! Throughout this period, the Rudkins kept a home in Carlow, their ancestral manor house.

Because we had stayed at Leighlinbridge, we had to cover over thirty kilometers to get to Graiguenamanagh, which suddenly appears around a bend, a very welcome sight by that stage! Time permitting, Duiske Abbey is well worth a visit with its carefully restored oak roof. It was founded by the busy William Marshall in 1204 and run by the Cistercians until it was suppressed by Henry VIII in 1536, its lands going to the resilient and cunning Butlers.

The last day was a morning stroll in glorious sunshine, crossing the impressive bridge at Graiguenamanagh (though it needs some pedestrian accommodation), and following the Barrow to St Mullin’s and the last lock. St Mullin’s marks the upper-most reach of the tidal influence on the Barrow which flows majestically to New Ross and out to the sea at Passage East (where Strongbow fatefully landed in 1170). St Moling founded a monastery here and the remains of its round tower remain visible. A steep cone of hill nearby is the remains of a mote-and-bailey built by Raymond ‘Le Gros’ FitzGerald, one of Strongbow’s greatest tactical warriors. In May 1170, Raymond landed near Wexford and seized the headland of Baginbun, ‘where Ireland was lost and won’ as the lament goes.

With the old graveyard at St Mullins containing the remains of rebels from the great rebellion of 1798, you can get a quick tour of Ireland’s history concentrated at St Mullin’s. It is also a delightful spot for lunch on the banks of the Barrow which marked the end of our adventure.

The one issue on the Barrow Way was the lack of facilities. To encourage greater use, it would be immeasurably improved with strategically placed sites with a toilet, tap, picknick area, and carpark.

Eamonn

28 August 2025

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Retirement from DFA, farewell message

Dear colleagues, friends,

It is with a mix of reflection on my career and anticipation of new things ahead that I retire from the Department of Foreign Affairs. It has been a career of two halves. The first twenty years of my career focused on how to build peace amidst the fallout of the violence in Northern Ireland, as we dealt with collusion in murder and legacies of violence, community tensions around parades, and confidence in policing and the rule of law. I am proud to have written the Government’s Assessment of the New Material that overturned the Widgery Report on Bloody Sunday and established the Saville Inquiry in 1998. It was an honour to have served with such inspiring colleagues in Anglo-Irish Division and to have been a member of the Good Friday Agreement Talks Team.

My first posting to Washington in the early 1990s was an extension of the peace process as we engaged intensively with the Clinton Administration. At the Embassy, along with an dynamic coalition of Irish Americans and Irish political leaders, we helped Congressman Bruce Morrison pass his diversity visa programme whose exclusive 40% for Ireland provided most of the undocumented Irish with green cards.

The second half of my career included fascinating work setting up Irish Aid’s Rapid Response Unit and the Conflict Resolution Unit. There is an immeasurable pride in presenting credentials as an Irish Ambassador, which I had the honour to do in Seoul in 2009 and subsequently in Pyongyang, Tel Aviv, Ottawa, Jamaica, The Bahamas, and Antigua and Barbuda. Excursions to North Korea and Gaza, fieldwork in Pakistan, Timor-Leste, Liberia, and Sierra Leone, and explorations of the Canadian Arctic made for adventures full of unforgettable people and places. 

Some of my generation were early adopters of social media as a powerful new diplomatic tool. Throughout my postings, I published blogs on what I discovered, mostly traces of the Irish and their influence, often forgotten, often profound. Like the key role of the Royal Ulster Rifles in the Korean War, the strange life of John Henry Patterson of Ballymahon, godfather of the Israeli Defence Forces, and the role of the Irish in Canada, from Irish lumber barons in colonial Canada to the design of the Canadian flag. Back at Iveagh House between 2015 and 2020, as Trade Director I worked very hard to create Team Ireland and took on the organisation of Ireland at Expo Dubai.

Countless people enriched my journeys, their willingness always quickening when they learned I was Irish. Our greatest resource overseas is our Diaspora, engagements with whom ranged from the poignant to the joyful. Our values-based foreign policy is an enduring strength too of our diplomatic influence, now more critical than ever. 

Throughout my career, Ireland was changing and changing fast. The Ireland in which I had grown up is gone, evolved into a society that is peaceful, prosperous, inclusive, and diverse. It has been the fortune of my generation of diplomats to tell that story overseas.

Closing out my diplomatic career as Ambassador to Canada was wonderful, a journey deep into its Irish heart. Keep an eye out for Fifty Irish Lives in Canada 1661-2017, due to be published later this year, which Prof Mark McGowan and I have edited. Along with Caroilin Callery of the National Famine Museum, last year we launched the Global Irish Famine Way in Newfoundland. It will extend the National Famine Way to Canada, the US, South Africa, and Australia. That and other projects on my radar will keep me busy.

To my colleagues in the Department, present and retired, I say heartfelt thanks for your mentorship, support, and friendship. The new generations of officials whom I have encountered assure that the proud aspiration to public service is undiminished. To each and every one of the Protocol team, it has been an absolute pleasure to work with you on my last stint at the Department.

The diplomatic life is inextricably personal, particularly so if you have met your wife or partner en poste, as I did in Washington. Two of our three children were born there. Throughout my diplomatic career, Mary has been my indispensable ally. She committed to our life together, giving up a career as a Legislative Assistant in Congress to Bruce Morrison and in the US Government, following me around the world, and embracing all the tasks that fall to the partner: organizing residences, catering events big and small, and putting herself out there as a public figure.

For the forbearance and love of my wife and children, I am more grateful than they can ever know. They turned a diplomatic journey into a life.

Best wishes,

Eamonn

eamonncmckee@yahoo.com

www.eamonncmckee.com

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Feminist Hero: Anna Jameson

It has been one of the challenges of Fifty Irish Lives in Canada 1661-2017 to find women to profile. It reflects how history, written by men, had eliminated them from the record or simply anonymised them. One of the heroes of Fifty Irish Lives in Canada is Anna Brownell Jameson, née Murphy (born in Dublin in 1794, died in London 1860), profiled by Laura J. Smith. As we celebrate International Women’s Day, the lives of women we recovered, though few, must stand for the unrecorded lives and work of half the population throughout the history of the Irish in Canada.

Anna was a young child when her father Denis Murphy decamped to London to pursue his profession as a miniature portrait artist. By dint of talent and determination, she carved out a life of literary accomplishment, adventure, and fame that spanned England, Germany, France, Italy, and Canada. Ireland was never far from her thoughts. If there is a thread to Anna’s writing life, it is the role of women in society, beginning with her popular study of woman characters in Shakespeare’s play, Characteristics of Women (London, 1832). Her advocacy for women’s rights become more overt as the century unfolded and her own confidence grew.

By the time Anna wrote her famous three-volume travelogue of Canada, Winter Studies and Summer Rambles (London, 1838), she had become an advocate for women’s rights, driven by rage at how society enslaved them through lack of education and careers. In its degree of freedom and agency, she wrote, the position of Indigenous women was “more honest and honoured”[i] compared to that of European women. The lack of education for women made their situation as settlers far worse than their homebound counterparts. Anna writes: “I have not often in my life met with contented and cheerful-minded women, but I never met with so many repining and discontented woman as in Canada.”[ii] To the alarmed male critics of Anna’s feminist views, one woman riposted wittily “well they may be, for when the horse and ass begin to think and argue, adieu to riding and driving.”[iii]

Shooting rapids accompanied by Canadian voyageurs and Indigenous guides, Anna exulted in the pristine landscapes and exposure to Indigenous life. Notes the Dictionary of Canadian Biography: “… we see Anna at her best, an intrepid, adaptable, enthusiastic explorer, intensely interested in everyone she meets …. and everything she experiences. She was delighted to be “the first European female” to shoot the rapids at the Sault, her companion a part-Indian friend, George Johnston. Escorted homeward down Lake Huron in a bateau rowed by four voyageurs, she was awestruck by the unspoiled beauty of the islands around her.” [iv] Her adventures in the wilds of Ontario made her object of fascination to society women back in Toronto.

In her forthcoming profile, Laura writes, “Winter Studies and Summer Rambles has been reprinted countless times since its publication nearly 200 years ago and has been the subject of numerous scholarly analyses. It has been hailed as an important work of early feminism, travel writing, and of epistolary literature. For twenty-first century Canadians the book is a remarkable glimpse of a virtually unrecognizable Ontario covered in dark, forbidding forests, impassable unhealthy swamps, crisscrossed by blazed trails and ineffective corduroy roads.”

Anna’s arduous crossing to Canada had been occasioned by an attempt to rescue her relationship with her dullard husband, at the time Attorney General. He lacked concern for her emotionally or financially. They were contrary in character and her departure from Canada signaled the failure of the marriage.

A talented artist in her own right, Anna converted her landscape sketches into etchings to accompany her publications. In fact, her love of art and her work as an art historian was the mainstay of her intellectual curiosity and publications. Following years of arduous research, she published the Handbook to the Public Galleries of Art in or near London (1842) and the Companion to Private Galleries of Art in London (1844). As Thomas writes, “After them she began to specialize in the field of art, where she was to become one of arbiters of public taste both in Victorian England and in America.” [v] Her writing on art was immensely popular on both sides of the Atlantic because she was guiding a public eager to learn about an area of culture hitherto the preserve of the aristocracy.

As her place in society was established, Anna felt freer to embrace her Irish identity. She returned to Ireland in 1848, touring extensively against the backdrop of the Great Famine. She was horrified by the scenes of starvation, death and dissolution and disgusted at the anti-Irish bigotry of The Times. The pleasant part of the visit was staying with Maria Edgeworth and drinking whiskey punch with reverend fathers in a priory. Anna returned again in 1853 for an Irish exhibition. Her affinity for Ireland was illustrated by her warm response to any fellow countrymen she encountered or sought out on her travels. She felt most comfortable in the company of what she saw as her own people.

Anna’s five-volume work Sacred and Legendary Art was a major intellectual achievement and marked her out as a pioneering art historian. Regrettably, as Clara Thomas notes, Anna’s planned three-volume history of female artists who made their living by the “public exercise of their talents” never came to fruition.

As Anna labored to build her career as a writer and intellectual, she financially and emotionally sustained a household for her long-invalided father, along with her mother, two unmarried sisters, and a niece. Her advocacy for women’s right to education and the opportunities it allowed continued for the rest of her life. She was a mentor to a new generation of feminists.

Eamonn


[i] Clara Thomas, Love and Work Enough (Toronto, 1967), p.141.

[ii] Vol. 1, p. 108.

[iii] Mrs Proctor responding to Thackery’s criticism, cited Love and Work Enough, pp 141-2.

[iv] https://www.biographi.ca/en/bio/murphy_anna_brownell_8E.html

[v] Op cit., p 164. The verdict in slightly amended form is repeated in the DIB entry https://www.dib.ie/biography/jameson-anna-brownell-a4254

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Happy Canada Flag Day! Paddy Reid and Canada’s Iconic Flag

REID, WILLIAM ADRIAN LOCKHART PATRICK

Born: 1924, Belfast, Co. Antrim

Died: 2015, Richmond, British Columbia

Author: Mark G. McGowan

Patrick Reid is an example of how Irish immigrants have contributed greatly to Canada’s image in the world and to Canadians’ own self-understanding. Patrick’s father William was an officer in the Royal Ulster Constabulary, which meant Patrick, his sister Muriel, and mother Kathleen, moved frequently in Northern Ireland. Patrick, however, was particularly close to his maternal grandfather Aaron Lockhart, an equestrian, a Great War veteran, and successful farmer in Dunkineely, Donegal. On visits to his grandfather’s farm, he cultivated a lifelong love of horses and the military. Raised in the Church of Ireland, Patrick attended the Methodist College in Belfast, where he excelled in academics and rugby. In 1941, at age sixteen, he entered Queen’s University Belfast, where he spent a year of study before enlisting, under-aged and against his parents wishes, in the British Army.  After officer training at Sandhurst, where he was awarded the “Belt of Honour” as the top cadet, he joined the North Irish Horse, an armoured regiment soon to be deployed on the Italian front. During the Italian Campaign he worked closely with Canadian troops whom he referred to as “the best infantry in the Eighth Army.” Thus began his love-affair with Canada. He was wounded in action and won the Military Cross for bravery before the war’s end. In 1945, he was deployed to Malaya and served with the military constabulary there, and then was seconded by NATO to serve in Norway, with responsibility for overseeing the Scandinavian sector. In 1954, the British Army sent him to the staff College in Kingston, Ontario, which cemented his desire to remain in Canada.

In May 1955, after a brief sojourn in Ireland, Patrick landed in Montreal and registered as an immigrant. His first job was in sales at Crawley Films in Ottawa. It was on a trip to promote filmmaking in British Columbia, that he was hired by Michael O’Brien, owner of one of Vancouver’s leading advertising agencies, and was set to work on commercial accounts and promotions for the Conservative Party. In 1956, while at a St. Patrick’s Day party he met his future wife, Alison Cumming. They were married in 1958 and later had two children, Amanda and Michael. In 1962, Reid was enticed to move to Ottawa to become the Director of Canadian Government Exhibitions Commission, an office responsible for marketing Canada abroad, particularly through international “expos.”  While reluctant to leave Vancouver, where he had become active in the local military regiments, commercial enterprises, and local politics, the move to Ottawa would be life changing.

In 1964, Canadian Prime Minster Lester Pearson was under heavy fire for his initiative to create a new Canadian flag. Opposition politicians and a host of national organizations denounced the “Pearson Pennant”—a flag bounded by two blue boarders, white centre section, containing three red maple leaves—with no homage to the country’s British heritage. The Prime Minister’s Office called Reid at the Exhibition Commission for help to work with a design by historian George F Stanley. Reid enlisted his team, particularly designer Jacques Saint-Cyr to re-create the flag. Later, Reid explained that the flag would have to be simple enough for school children to draw, be seen the same way from both sides, and retain a single maple leaf (which he recalled from the uniforms of the Canadian troops in Italy). His team came up with the modified design, an eleven-pointed maple leaf on a white field, flanked by thick red bands. Reid’s team raised their design on the flagpole one night in front of Pearson’s official residence. Next morning, Pearson awoke to the redesigned pennant and expressed approval. The new flag became official February 15, 1965.

Reid’s Special Project Division became responsible for the Canadian historical road show embodied in the Centennial Train and Caravans in 1967 and for support to Expo 67 in Montreal. Internationally, he was Commissioner General of the Milan Exposition of 1964 and became the Senior Canadian delegate to the Bureau International des Expositions (BIE), the global body that approved applications for international exhibitions. He would become director of the BIE in 1972. In 1970, he was head of the Canadian pavilion at Expo 70 in Osaka, Japan, and led the delegation representing all foreign exhibitors. The Canadian pavilion was one of the most visited at the fair, and his superb leadership earned him the Public Service Award of Merit. In 1972, External Affairs appointed Reid their representative to oversee the Canada-Russia Summit hockey series. Reid smoothed over some Soviet-Canadian diplomatic difficulties and was on hand in Moscow to see Paul Henderson score the historic series winning goal. His growing reputation for skill in marketing Canada to the world prompted his appointment, in 1978, as head of Canada House on Trafalgar Square in London, which he transformed into a Canadian cultural “mecca” for Canadian and international tourists.

Reid’s greatest achievement, however, was his convincing the BIE to hold an exposition for communication and transportation in Vancouver in 1986. As the head of Expo ’86 he secured the participation of a record fifty-four countries to build pavilions along Vancouver’s False Creek. The exposition was a triumph in terms of attendance and as a “linchpin” for the development of Vancouver as a world class city. The “man in motion” theme of the fair also inspired his future son-in-law, para-Olympian Rick Hansen, who adopted the fair’s motto as he traversed the earth in a wheelchair to help create an accessible and inclusive world for people with disabilities and find a cure for spinal cord injury. In 1987, for his many achievements, Reid was named an Officer of the Order of Canada. He ended his public service as head of the Vancouver Port Corporation. In his memoire, aptly titled Wild Colonial Boy, Patrick Reid commented that he was very proud of his Irish heritage, but he exuded love for Canada: “As a newcomer I was blessed in another way. I had just become a citizen when I found myself portraying Canada abroad … the task was easy. I had the conviction of a true convert that no other country in the world could compare with my adopted land.”

Further Reading:

Patrick Reid, Wild Colonial Boy. Vancouver: Douglas & McIntyre, 1995.

Vancouver Sun, 11 December 2015

Globe & Mail, 20 December 2015

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Irish Lumber Barons and the Making of Modern Canada

Perhaps the item that best captures the connection between Canada and the Irish lumber barons is the moose head that greets you on entering Hamwood House, Dunboyne. It will confuse Irish visitors who know little if anything of Canada’s rich Irish heritage. But you will know.

The impact and influence of the Irish in Canada is an epic story that deserves to be remembered as a hugely consequential part of the wider story of the global Irish Diaspora. Aside from the many Irish who came to Canada as labourers, farmers, wives, mothers, home-builders, and soldiers, a select few emerged as leaders who helped shape the development of Canada. Best known among them were political figures, like Thomas D’Arcy McGee for his role in Canadian Confederation in when it became the first Dominion of the British Empire in 1867. Others played leading though unsung roles shaping Canada’s colonial administration, jurisprudence, science, journalism, literature, science, exploration, and policing.

The story of these Irish leaders and pioneers defies the stereotype of the Irish as labouring in the lower ranks of whatever they did, as brawn not brain, as workers and definitively not as managers, entrepreneurs, and architects of society. I hazard that this explains why the Irish role in Canada has been ignored and forgotten. Stereotypes are powerful because they reinforce, even define power structures about who is deigned to lead and who to follow. They are a foundational and sustaining trope of imperial projects shaping public opinion and academic biases.

One such group of Irish leaders exemplifies this tension between their influence and their obscurity, the Irish lumber barons. There were pioneers, indeed architects, of Canada’s lumber industry, the mainstay of the country’s economy for almost two centuries.

The key role of the Irish lumber barons was that more impressive where success required mastery of complex logistics, the management of large dispersed workforces, acute business acumen, a capacity for risk taking, an understanding of finance, and a capacity to leverage political influence. Moreover, it required a high degree of physical robustness in a vast, harsh, unforgiving, and largely undeveloped landscape. This was not a business for the feint hearted.

Lumber exports succeeded beaver pelts as British North America’s leading commodity as the 18th century turned to the 19th. They remained the engine of Canada’s economy throughout much of the 20th century.  Lumber is still a multi-billion Canadian export. As an export industry, lumber began in earnest with Henry Caldwell, born near Belleek, Fermanagh in 1738.

Caldwell had a distinguished role fighting in the Seven Years War (French Indian War, 1754-1763), rising to become assistant to Quarter Master General Guy Carleton (born 1724 in Strabane) at the 1760 Siege of Quebec, the climatic defeat of the French. Retiring from the army in 1774, he bought land and a house in Quebec, and built a gristmill. The ink was barely dry on the lease when the American Continental Army invaded, led by Benedict Arnold, and seized Caldwell’s house. The Revolutionary Army marched on Quebec City. Caldwell again teamed up with Carleton who was leading the defence of the city. The main attack was led by Brigadier General Richard Montgomery (from Swords), who faced off against Caldwell in a series of attacks in December. The attacks were countered by Caldwell and petered out after Montgomery died in a hail of grapeshot. Caldwell was honoured with the task of taking the news of the victory to the king in England.

On his return to Quebec, Caldwell became a member of the Legislative Council, was appointed the chief tax collector (a dubious source of some of his fortune), resumed his business milling and selling flour to the British Army (£22,000 worth in 1810 alone), acquiring some 600,000 acres of land and building Caldwell Manor and his estate at Belmont. He cut such a dash in Quebec society that he was the model for the hero of Frances Brooke’s The history of Emily Montague (1769), Canada’s first novel.  

By the 1790s, Napoleon had emerged from the turmoil of Revolutionary France waging a new type of warfare based on national mobilization. The centuries-long global rivalry with Britain entered its final decisive stage. Caldwell recognized the strategic value of Canadian lumber when war broke out between Britain and France in 1803.  In 1804, he persuaded Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville, the Lord of the Admiralty, that Canadian timber provide for the Royal Navy what it had formerly secured in the Baltic. Caldwell converted his flour mills to saw mills. The Canadian lumber industry experienced exponential growth with Napoleon’s Berlin Decree of 1806 which made trade with England an offence.  England responded with heavy tariffs on imports, notably lumber.  The Admiralty’s agreement to source lumber in British North American effectively created Canada’s main export economy for the rest of the 19th century, thanks to Caldwell’s strategic vision and business acumen.

Enter the next Irish lumber baron, George Hamilton from Dunboyne, related to Caldwell by his marriage to Anne Hamilton. She was the daughter of Alexander Hamilton who had settled in Knock, County Dublin from the family base in Armagh. The Hamiltons had been part of Ireland’s history for almost two centuries. Originally from Scotland, they were a famously talented lineage. The first Hamilton in Ireland had been Hugh, arriving from Scotland around 1616 and settling in Co Down.  (Hugh was the son of Sir James Hamilton of Evandale and Helen Cunningham.   Of Norman lineage, the storied Hamiltons had been in Scotland since at least 1271 with a record of one Walter FitzGilbert Hamilton.) Hugh’s great grandson, Alexander, established Newtownhamilton in Co Armagh but he himself had settled in Knock, Co Dublin.  Alexander’s son Charles sold the townland of Newtownhamilton and purchased 500 acres in Dunboyne.  There he built Hamwood House between 1779 and 1783 at a cost of £2,500. 

Charles married Elizabeth Chetwood and they had fifteen children, of whom six survived to adulthood, five sons and one daughter.  His son Charles (1772-1857) inherited Hamwood on the death of his father in 1818. George (born 1781) was the third son after Robert.  Since he was not in line to inherit the estate, George was apprenticed to a miller, learning what was thought to be a rewarding business in the flour trade.  William, the fourth son, joined the navy.  John got a commission in the army.  Eventually George and Robert established a business at Liverpool Cove importing timber from the Baltic, Madeira wines, and other goods.

Just as Napoleon’s Continental Blockade had boosted Caldwell’s prospects, it cut off George’s Baltic supply of lumber. No doubt advised by Caldwell of the new opportunities in Canada, George arrived in Quebec sometime between 1804 and 1806. In his early twenties, and backed by Caldwell’s introductions to the social elite of Quebec City, George was soon a man about town, a successful merchant, and a leading voice for the Tories. 

By 1807 George was providing Quebec with Madeira wine and other fineries supplied by his brother Robert in Liverpool. William soon joined him and in 1806 was working with the Northwest Company, the upstart company competing with the Hudson Bay Company in the fur trade.  By 1809, George and William were business partners as Auctioneers and Brokers, selling a wide variety of goods.  By now, imports of European lumber to Britain had plummeted while Canada’s lumber exports were soaring in direct response. That year, the Hamilton brothers took a twenty-year lease of 425 acres from their uncle across the river from the city and called it New Liverpool Cove, named after the location of their business back in England.  They were ready to enter the burgeoning transatlantic lumber trade.  As the Dictionary of Canadian Biography records, ‘By early 1807 [George] was already among the 21 leading merchants and office holders of conservative convictions who constituted the exclusive Barons’ Club.’

While the small lumber industry had been well established in New Brunswick (Miramichi, St Croix and St John rivers) and Nova Scotia, the Ottawa Valley wilderness offered vast potential to meet the new demand from England as well as the burgeoning ship building industry in Quebec.  Infiltration of the Valley by New England settlers had begun in 1800 when Philemon Wright, guided by an Algonquin, arrived from Massachusetts with a group to settle where the Gatineau and Ottawa Rivers met, overlooking the rapids at Chaudière Falls. They cleared two farms, the ‘Gateno’ and Columbia where Wright built a log cabin, sardonically called the Wigwam. The settlement of Wright’s Town followed, with a forge, bakery, tailor, cobbler and eventually a school. This became Hull, today’s Gatineau.

The local Ottawa Algonquin Anishinaabe community, led by Constant Pinesi, had been devastated by European diseases like smallpox and measles.  They were in no position to offer resistance to the influx of settlers. Dams and forest clearance by settlers were ruining his traditional hunting grounds. The Algonquin had fought with the French in the wars against the British but had allied with the British with the defeat of the French at Quebec. Pinesi in vain protested to the authorities about the occupation and seizure of his lands either side of the Rideau River, lodging twenty fruitless petitions.

In 1806 Wright floated the first raft of timber and lumber to Quebec: 700 hundred logs, 9,000 boards and countless staves, all hand cut.   He sold boards and staves along the way during the journey of sixty-two days to help pay for it.  Thanks to Napoleon’s blockade, lumber from the Ottawa Valley was now greatly in demand.  As the new industry developed, the system for cutting, hewing and transportation was improving.  By 1813, the journey from Hull reduced to thirteen days. Wright shipped twenty rafts a year and employing over two-hundred men.  

The Napoleonic wars in Europe created a lumber industry boom in Canada.  George Hamilton soon had an expanded mill at Hawkesbury up and running. In the War of 1812, George became an officer of the Militia in Quebec and later Lotbinière.  With his relentless energy, business acumen, and hardiness, George was a major figure in the business, social, military, and political communities of Upper and Lower Canada. As his business prospered so did the development of the Ottawa Valley. Meanwhile Constant Pinesi and his son joined the British to fight the invading Americans in the War of 1812-14, though his service did nothing to advance his claim to his lands.

Drawn to the Valley by the nascent lumber industry, and in partnership with Montreal businessman John Shuter, Americans David Pattee and Thomas Mears leased land from the Algonquins and Nipissings for use of the two islands at Hawkesbury (named after Robert Banks Jenkinson, Baron Hawkesbury and, as Lord Liverpool, British Prime Minister 1812-1827).  At the head of the Long Sault Rapids, they built dams and the first saw mills on the Upper Canada (Quebec) side of the Ottawa River.  By 1809, orders for timber from the Admiralty were worth £2,500,000 a year. Across the river at Grenville on the Quebec side, Scotsman Archibald McMillan established himself in 1810 with 19,000 acres.  The Hawkesbury mills became the lynchpin in the supply of lumber from the Ottawa and Gatineau Valleys to Quebec, Montreal and across the Atlantic to Ireland and Britain.

Pattee and Mears lost control of their mills at Hawkesbury in 1811. They had found themselves over-stretched and in debt to Quebec merchants including the Hamiltons.  George Hamilton took possession of the mill with the intention of selling it.  However, he changed his mind and moved to Hawkesbury to run the operation.  It was the start of a long and bitter feud with Mears and Pattee, beginning with a suspicious fire that destroyed Hamilton’s mill and stock the following year.

The rivalry was certainly primarily about control of the lumber business but there was too a clash between the aristocratic and conservative values of Hamilton and the democratic instincts of the American settlers like Wright, Pattee and Mears. Hamilton viewed these republican Americans with deep suspicion as seditious of the natural and aristocratic order of society. Hamilton believed in big business and sought to eliminate the small lumber operators who he believed added instability to a famously capricious and unstable lumber trade. This did not stop his own illegal logging on crown lands.

In 1816, the 34 years old George married 17 years old Lucy Susannah Christiana Craigie. They would have at least seven and upwards of ten children. When George’s brother William retired, George moved to Hawkesbury to oversee his mill, supported by brothers Robert in Liverpool and John in New Liverpool. The DCB explains their business model:

‘The mill-site, at the head of the Long Sault Rapids, was ideal. It was within easy reach of the timber stands on the Ottawa River and its tributaries. The rapids provided ample power and an obstacle to the rafting of timber to market at Quebec; lumberers unwilling to break up and then rebuild their rafts sold them to Hamilton. Finally, the Ottawa valley was opening up, and settlers were happy to sell logs from their lands in return for merchandise from the store that Hamilton had the astuteness to build. Unlike other up-country lumberers, Hamilton, as part of an integrated company, could avoid the costs and delays occasioned by middlemen at Quebec and in England. The Hawkesbury operation grew; by 1818 it employed 80 men, a large number for the time, and in 1822 it reportedly ran 40 saws.’

The lumber boom ended with the final defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815.  However, this was just part of the industry’s cyclical nature and exports would resume to the UK and in later decades to supply the rapidly expanding housing market in the United States. 

Barely escaping financial ruin with another downturn in the market in the early 1820s, and losing three of his young children when their canoe overturned on the Ottawa River, as well as his house at Hawkesbury to fire, Hamilton undaunted rebuilt the business and by 1825 his mills were employing 200. By the 1830s, Hamilton and the other lumber barons were eyeing the white and red pines of the Gatineau Valley. Along with Peter Alyn, Philemon Wright and Sons, and Charles Low, Hamilton formed an Association and won approval for the Gatineau Privilege, designed to limit logging to the members of the Association, the intention to exclude and suppress smaller operators. The Association in turn invested in improvements to facilitate transport of the logs out of the Gatineau, into the Ottawa River and onward to the mills at Hawkesbury. Employment at Hawkesbury grew accordingly.

While on manoeuvres with the militia, Hamilton caught a cold and died in January 1839. The DCB sums up his influence:

George Hamilton was among the first of the great timber barons who played an important part in the public life of British North America in the 19th century. At his worst he was headstrong and opinionated, an inveterate tory of undemocratic principles and élitist sensibilities, prepared even to overstep the law in order to get his way. At his best he brought to the crude and brutal frontier that was the Ottawa valley in the early years of the timber trade a rare politeness of manners and generosity of spirit. Significantly, Hamilton was a gifted businessman and lobbyist. He bent his energy, determination, and influence to building an important firm in a fundamental sector of the colonial economy and to bringing a modicum of stability to a trade plagued by the fluctuating markets and the repeated spates of oversupply that generate the boom-and-bust syndrome of staple-producing colonies.

By now, one of the greatest strategists produced by the Irish Protestant Ascendancy, Arthur Wellesley (the Duke of Wellington) was putting into action his plan to fortify Canada against another attempted invasion by the US. Shocked by the War of 1812, Wellington believed that British North America was the key to Britain’s global hegemony. He wanted a canal to supply Montreal from Kingston via the Ottawa River should the Americans lay siege from the St Lawrence. Canals were to be vital part of a defensive network that included Martello Towers, rebuilt fortifications at Quebec City and Halifax, organized militias of retired soldiers (many Irish) and arms depots. Though designed to be militarily strategic, this infrastructure was a boon to the nascent Canadian economy. The construction of the Rideau Canal between 1826 and 1832 prompted the establishment of Bytown, called after the Colonel John By, the British Army engineer who designed and oversaw the Canal’s construction.

Yet if the Canal originated the settlement at Bytown, the lumber industry of the Ottawa and Gatineau Valleys sustained the town as well as providing a ready market for agricultural produce to feed the growing labour force army cutting, hewing, milling, and transporting lumber. As land was cleared of timber, it became farms that fed the lumber workforce and that income sustained towns and hamlets throughout the Ottawa Valley.

All of this economic activity attracted waves of Irish emigrants. The ships that took Canadian lumber across the Atlantic came back with stone ballast and their owners were more than happy to accommodate passengers for cheap fares. This facilitated the first large wave of Irish emigrants to Canada, Protestant farmers, mainly from Wexford and south Wicklow. This region in Ireland had witnessed terrible scenes of sectarian violence during the Irish rebellion of 1798 and in its bloody suppression by the local Yeomanry.

The canals (Lachine at Montreal, the Rideau, and the Grenville at the Long Sault rapids at Hawkesbury) and fortifications to create Wellington’s fortress Canada attracted the second wave of Irish emigrants into the area; Catholics leaving Ireland because of the agricultural depression that followed the conclusion of the Napoleon wars in 1815 (thanks again to Wellington!)

Among the emigrants was Nicholas Sparks (Catholic) from Wexford who got a job working with Philemon Wright’s son Ruggles.  Soon he had graduated from labouring to buying supplies in Montreal and Quebec. Having accumulated some money, he bought the John ‘Honey’ Burrows land, 200 acres where the Rideau entered the Ottawa. It cost him ₤95. Today it is downtown Ottawa.

Construction of the Rideau Canal began in 1826. Many of its Irish labourers followed its builder, Thomas McKay, from the newly completed Lachine Canal at Montreal. Because he owned the land at the head of the canal, Nicholas Sparks was suddenly sitting on a fortune.  As he said, he also became landlord to a town.  Daniel O’Connor, attracted by this business opportunities, arrived from Tipperary. O’Connor became a successful businessman and civic leader, holding several government posts.  Named in his honour, O’Connor Street Bridge across Patterson Creek opened up the Glebe to development. In 1826, O’Connor’s daughter Mary Anne By O’Connor was the first European girl born in Bytown (a boy had been born that year too but died in June 1827).

John Egan who arrived in Bytown from Galway in 1830, got a job as a clerk and soon had established a dry goods store at Aylmer, near Wright’s Town. It was not long before he began his lumber business, eventually becoming one of the richest and most influential lumber barons in the Ottawa Valley (thanks to the historian of the Ottawa Valley, Michael McBane has written Egan’s biography, a rare exception to the general amnesia about the Irish lumber barons). 

By 1844, Egan was rafting 2.5 million feet of lumber on 55 rafts to Quebec each season. Ten years later his company employed 3800 men in 100 lumber camps, most of them Irish, the largest operation owned and managed by one individual. Egan advertised in ports like Cork, New Ross and Donegal for workers to come and he sold them land at 50c an acre. Once the emigrants had earned enough in the tough and dangerous work of culling timber, they bought land and became farmers. Like Sparks, Egan was close friends with Ruggles Wright. As the elected representative of Ottawa County (then ‘Pontiac’), Egan worked to develop its infrastructure and helped secure the reserve that is today’s Algonquin Anishinaabe’s Kitigan Zibi.

McBane writes:

‘From birth into a poor Catholic farming family in the west of Ireland to wealthy lumber baron and much loved Member of the Parliament, John Egan’s life was a spectacular transformation wrought by the combination of his natural talents and the opportunities provided in the Ottawa Valley.  He had left for Canada aged 20 with few resources and little education.  By the time he died of cholera aged 46, Egan had used his business and political pre-eminence to develop the lumber industry, encourage Irish settlement, secure land for the Anishinaabe reserve, support the campaign to make Bytown a capital city, and help lay the foundations for liberal democracy in pre-Confederation Canada.’

Army officers and the affluent settled on and to the west of the Hill overlooking the canal works at Bytown. The workers congregated in the swampy reaches of the riverbanks and what would become Lowertown, today’s Byward Market. The dense mix of mainly Irish, French, Scots and Indigenous craftsmen and labourers were a business opportunity.  Supplying them with food and alcohol, Mother McGinty’s tavern was a famous haunt, run with fearsome oversight by the woman herself.  As Grant Vogl of the Bytown Museum writes, “Sarah Ritchie was born in County Monaghan, Ireland about 1803 and became a somewhat legendary figure in early Bytown, specifically among the navvies (inland navigators) of Corktown along the works of the Rideau Canal. Family history recounts that Sarah was born into a well-to-do Protestant family and at an early age, fell in love with the family’s Catholic stable hand John McGinty (b.1799).”

Chief Pinesi continued to protest in vain against his land being stolen. Even though he and his son had proven their loyalty in the War of 1812, the authorities ignored him. Pinesi and his wife died of cholera of 1834. None of the Ottawa or Gatineau Valleys were ever subject to a treaty and they remain to this day unsurrendered. The Algonquin Anishinaabe still fight to undo this and reclaim their territory.

By now, with the Rideau Canal finished, the Irish looked to muscle in on the French control of the lumber industry. They were led by Peter Aylen, most likely born in Liverpool of Irish parents. Charismatic, cunning and violent, Aylen led the Irish in the Shiners’ war, a period of criminal chaos that terrorized Bytown throughout most of the 1830s. Estimates vary but fatalities perhaps numbered upwards of forty. When it was over, Aylen settled across the river and, as we have seen, became a respectable businessman and one of the Association that had won the Gatineau Privilege.

Andrew Leamy’s family arrived from Tipperary while he and his siblings were still children. Born in 1816, Andrew got his first job rafting Aylen’s lumber to Quebec and in at least one incident disrupted a meeting in Bytown as part of the Shiners’ War. Leamy then worked with Philemon Wright. Handsome and charming, Leamy earned a reputation for great physical strength and hardiness in a community of tough lumbermen. He used his fists when needed, tragically killing a young Scotsman, though he was acquitted having successfully argued self-defence. Despite this, Leamy became an enormously popular figure, known for his generosity and compassion.

The Irish leaders of Ottawa were tightknit. Nicholas Sparks had stayed close to the Wrights, married Philemon Jr’s widow Sally Olmstead and adopted his daughter, Erexina, and after he had died in a carriage accident a year after her birth. Leamy married Erexina; they were aged 19 and 15 respectively.  They would have ten children. He eventually bought 160 hectares of the farm that he had worked, along with its pond and reputedly the famous ‘Wigwam’. With money to be made in lumber, Leamy decided to build a mill there, along with a canal connecting Lake Leamy to the Gatineau River to move the timber to the Ottawa River and on to Montreal.

A young carpenter building Leamy’s mill was J.R. Booth, son of Irish emigrants. Fascinated since boyhood with the mills and dams of the lumber industry all around him, Booth methodically learned the business. Having leased the mills at Chaudière Falls in 1857, two years later Booth won the contract to supply Thomas McGreevey, another son of Irish immigrants, who in turn had won the contract to build the new parliament. With this money, Booth bought the rights to the pines of the Madawaska River from John Egan’s widow. This would become the source of Booth’s fortune, eventually making J.R., as he was known, the richest man in Canada (and some say for a time the richest man in the world), and the largest private railway owner in the world. With lumber storage facilities at Rouses Point NY, a lumber operation in Burlington VT, a sales office in Boston, and a network of railways, lumber slides and canals, Booth’s lumber supplied the booming US market as its economy took off after the American Civil War.

McGreevey and Booth were great examples of the success of the first generation of Irish Canadians.  Another was Tom Ahearn, whose father John and mother Nora had arrived from Ireland in rough and tumble Bytown. Tom was born in 1855 when Bytown became Ottawa. A precocious inventor, Ahearn became the Edison of Canada, bringing electricity to his home town (before it arrived in the US Congress), creating the electric tram system that defined the city’s residential development, and inventing the electric oven. And at the heart of the city were Sparks and O’Connor streets in tribute to their founding roles. One of the leading figures in Bytown-Ottawa from the 1840s to the 1860s was alderman and three-time Mayor Thomas J. Friel, son of Irish parents from Montreal.

Leamy became fast friends with Canada’s most famous Irishman, Thomas D’Arcy McGee, one of the architects of Canada’s new constitutional status as a Confederation and Dominion. Both friends must have celebrated well in 1867. With Confederation, D’Arcy McGee saw his dreams of a Canadian nation realised. He had been supported in this great project by the Irish Governor General Charles Monck who had visited Ottawa and picked Rideau Hall to be the official residence. While three of Leamy’s children had died, seven had survived to adulthood. He had invested heavily in the development of Hull and was instrumental in the creation of the Independent School Board the previous year. They had many reasons to raise a glass together in 1867.

Both Leamy and D’Arcy McGee were surrounded by their fellow Irish, with the Irish language commonly heard in the streets of Byward and throughout the Valleys. From Byward Market to the settlements of Douglas, Arnpior, Shawville and Sheenboro, to the towns of Almonte, Renfrew and Smiths Falls to the farms and settlements of the Gatineau Valley like Low and Brennan’s Hill, there were thriving Irish communities throughout the region.

Tragically, both Leamy and D’Arcy McGee were murdered just a year later.  On 13 April 1868, a Fenian gunman shot D’Arcy McGee in the back of his head as he entered his lodgings. Eight days later, Leamy was found in the morning barely alive at the side of the road near his home, suffering from a bad head injury and bruising to his ribs. Evidently attacked the previous night on his return from Ottawa, his gold watch and chain were missing.  He never regained consciousness and died later that day. He was buried in the cemetery of Notre Dame in Hull, on the land he had donated to the Oblate Fathers. Enquiries came to nothing and the authorities at Aylmer entered an open verdict. Ten years later, a disgruntled employee was arrested for his murder.  

What does the role of the Irish in the lumber industry tell us?  That they were pioneers, innovators, entrepreneurs, as well as community leaders. That they played critical early roles in its early development, notably Caldwell and Hamilton. In a very real way, they were the founders of Ottawa because while Wellington had commissioned the Rideau Canal and thereby created Bytown, the town itself would have failed without the lumber industry simply because the canal was never a commercial venture. Its purpose after all had been military. The next generation developed these pioneering businesses. By the 1870s, Hamilton Brothers (Georges’ sons Robert based in New Liverpool and John in Hawkesbury) were employing 1000 men, producing 700,000 feet of lumber per day, 40 million board feet a year, and generating almost $550,000 annually. John went on to become a Senator and a highly respected banker. And because lumber was so important to Canada, figures like Caldwell, Hamilton, Egan, Leamy and first-generation Irish Canadians like Booth and the Hamilton brothers played leading roles in the development of Canada itself.

Ottawa was famously polluted by sawdust choking the river and smoke from paper mills casting a poisonous smog over the town, leading Oscar Wilde to harangue his audience when he visited in 1881. Logs bobbed from shore to shore of the Ottawa River up to the 1970s. Yet there is little or no evidence of the industry now. Nor is there much if any physical evidence of this significant Irish heritage. The Hawkesbury Mills were literally swallowed by history when the Carillon Dam flooded the Long Sault Rapids in 1964. Few remember or know the origins of Lake Leamy’s name, that Sparks and O’Connor were from Ireland, or that Wellington played a key role in developing Canada’s early infrastructure and indeed its capital city.

Yet if you look hard enough, you can find it. The office of the Hawkesbury Mill (built in the early 1830s) survives as Le Chenail Cultural Centre. In street names like Dufferin, Lisgar, and Booth. The memorial to Thomas Ahearn in the Glebe. The graves of Egan and the Ahearns in Beechwood Cemetery and the graves in Hull of Sparks and Leamy. The granite bench unveiled last year memorializing John Egan in Aylmer. Irish placenames throughout the Ottawa Valley. Irish inflected accents in Douglas. Geddes’s stained-glass window in St Bartholemew’s Church. The Celtic Cross to those who died building the Rideau Canal. We’ll add to these traces soon: Bronze Shoes will be placed in Macdonald Gardens Park to mark the resting place of 360 Irish Famine emigrants who died in Bytown in 1847 (again thanks to Michael McBane who preserved the memory of this site, hitherto forgotten).

There is little if any appreciation of the Irish heritage of Canada though thankfully historians like Mark McGowan, David Wilson, Donal Akenson, Jane McGaughey, William Jenkins, and Michele Holmgren continue to explore it, regularly publish immensely valuable research. Thanks to their efforts and the survival of Irish studies courses, there is a strong foundation on which to develop awareness.

As for awareness in Ireland of Irish emigration to Canada, the twists and turns of our history conspired against it. The horrific drama of the Famine, the scale of emigration to the US in the generations that followed, the rise of Irish America, and the upheavals of 1916-1922 that took Ireland out of the British Empire and separated it from Canada within it, obliterated the memory of the Irish in Canada in the Irish public imagination.

Perhaps the item that best captures the connection between Canada and the Irish lumber barons is the moose head that greets you on entering Hamwood House, Dunboyne. On a trip to Ireland in April last year, I had sought out the current resident of Hamwood House, Charles Hamilton, the seventh in line to occupy the Hamilton seat at Hamwood.  Affable and quietly spoken, he had returned to Hamwood after a career in England when he inherited the house and what was left of the estate.  Too small to be a viable farm, Charles has opened the house to the public to defray the cost of repair and maintenance. Smaller than some of Ireland’s grand houses from the highpoint of the Ascendancy in the 18th century, Hamwood is a delightful place to visit.  Centuries of artefacts sit in easy comfort and the atmosphere is redolent with memories of times past and Ireland’s complex colonial and colonizing history. The moose head in the hall will confuse Irish visitors who know little if anything of Canada’s rich Irish heritage. But you will know.

Eamonn

1 August 2024

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Filed under Canada, Irish Heritage of Canada, Uncategorized

Mother Barnes, ‘The Witch of Plum Hollow’

Born Elizabeth Martin, 1800 Cavan Ireland, died 1891 Ontario

(As part of our Fifty Irish Lives in Canada, we searched out women, often unrecorded or anonymized in history. I am grateful to Quinten Mitchell for bringing Mother Barnes to my attention.)

For a woman to earn the moniker ‘Mother Barnes, the Witch of Plum Hollow’, some mystery must have surrounded her.  Elizabeth Barnes earned a reputation as a fortune-teller and finder of lost objects that spread far beyond the farming district near Brockville on the St Laurence River where she lived in frugality.  Claims that she was the seventh daughter of the seventh daughter were said to explain her powers.  While that helped affirm her powers for some, her fame and earnings during her active decades were generated by satisfied customers in a remarkable display of economic agency by an immigrant single mother. 

Born in 1800 in County Cavan to a landlord and British Army colonel and a mother said to be of Spanish descent, Elizabeth Martin was a strikingly beautiful young child.  Admirably willful too; when faced an arranged marriage to an older man, Elizabeth eloped with a young soldier, Robert Harrison, to the United States in 1814.  They settled in Coburg, Canada, but Robert died a few years after the birth of their son Robert Junior.

In 1831, Elizabeth married David Barnes, a cobbler from Connecticut.  Six sons were born, four of whom would survive childhood, and three daughters.  By 1843, they had settled on a farm in Sheldon’s Corners, Ontario, a hub of United Empire Loyalists. David eventually left the family home and moved to Smiths Falls with the youngest son, David Jr, reuniting there with an older child, Sam, (later reeve and Mayor). 

Elizabeth began to monetize her reputation as a soothsayer to make ends meet, receiving clients upstairs in her tiny cottage for 25 cents.  Kindly and slight of frame, wearing a black dress and shawl, her penetrating pale eyes often unnerved her clients. She swirled tea leaves to divine answers to her clients’ concerns. If her eyes hadn’t unnerved them often her penetrating assessments of them did.  Whatever transacted between her and those motivated by curiosity or desperation to see her, word-of-mouth ensured her fame, even across the border in the U.S. 

The situation was ripe with story-telling potential.  To a young lawyer she predicted that the capital of a future Canada would be Ottawa and apparently promised him fame as its leader.  This was the future Prime Minister John A. Macdonald. She was said to possess great powers to recover lost objects.  It was said too that she identified the location of the remains of Morgan Doxtader as well as his murderer, cousin Edgar Harter who was convicted and hanged in Brockville.  From lost sheep and horses, to marriage prospects, Mother Barnes had an uncanny ability to impress her clients and they the capacity to fulfil her predictions.

Some skepticism and closer inspection suggests that willing assumptions about her powers trumped mundane, even obvious, explanations. By the time of John A. Macdonald’s consultation, he was the coming man in the Conservative Party and Confederation on the horizon. Ottawa was widely speculated as the new capital, duly announced in December 1857.  Elizabeth had a life-time of experience to bring to her assessments of marriage prospects as young lovers opened their hearts to her wise counsel.  As for the remains of murder victims and lost or stolen livestock, she no doubt knew the local gossip as intimately as anyone and probably more so. Such stories suggest that Mother Barnes restored social harmony through crime solving and restoration of lost property. If the gullible or curious were prepared to pay the 25 cents, they got their monies worth not through magic but wisdom and experience.  Mother Barnes’ role as local wise woman would no doubt have been of help to the many Irish streaming into the area during and after the Famine, notably the tenantry of the Coollattin Estate arriving in numbers in Smiths Falls in the 1850s.

Elizabeth amassed no fortune but used her earnings to support her family and some orphans. Seven children, forty-seven grandchildren and fourteen great-grandchildren were there to morn her death.  She was buried in an unmarked grave in Sheldon’s Corners Cemetery.

In former times, the label witch or any suggestion of occult powers could have had dire consequences for a woman. By the mid-19th century, the balance had swung toward toleration.  From séances to automatic writing, from ‘scientific’ experiments to photography, Victorians seemed as fixated on the occult as they were on science and progress. Against the backdrop of popular fiction by authors like Arthur Conan Doyle and Bram Stoker, Elizabeth’s fame owed as much to this Victorian Gothic sensibility as to her predictive abilities.

Yet her real success was survival against daunting odds by marketing and monetizing her hard-won expertise. Two years before her death, she chuckled to a journalist that “I’m a bit of a fraud.” By then her record and repute were unassailable. On her death in 1891, The Ottawa Free Press respectfully and more accurately mourned her passing as The Wise Woman of Plum Hollow, noting that she had become an institution in her lifetime. Her reputation was burnished in 1892 when a local writer, Thaddeus Leavitt, published his short novel, The Witch of Plum Hollow.  Mother Barnes’ enduring fame encouraged some locals to erect a headstone at the Cemetery. Today, her cottage can be seen from the road that bears her name.  It has been restored from a state of near destruction.  Its small scale defies belief that it functioned as a home for Elizabeth and her many dependents.

Mother Barnes managed to achieve some economic agency in the only way she knew how.  More typical was Eliza Grimason, born Elizabeth Jane Deacon in (Northern) Ireland, who successfully ran her deceased husband’s Royal Tavern in Kingston.  Less typically, and with a whiff of scandal, she was from an early stage a close confidante of John A. Macdonald.  Her political support for him increased as her wealth grew. 

Both Elizabeth and Eliza represent countless other women who wielded influence unseen in the pages of history.   Most were denied remembrance, their lives of hard work, caring, intergenerational childrearing, agency, and resilience forgotten or dismissed by the men who wrote the record. Even those women who achieved distinction were far less likely to feature in the histories of Canada than men who achieved less.  Albeit in folklore and in the modest remains of her cottage, Mother Barnes scored another distinctive success in the mere fact that she and her life are remembered today.  That in its own way was a big of magic.

Further reading

Eamonn McKee

Ottawa, 13 June 2024

Further reading:

The Witch of Plum Hollow « arlene stafford wilson (wordpress.com)

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Filed under Canada, Ireland, Irish Heritage of Canada, Uncategorized

Global Irish Famine Way: Update!

Updates: Bronze Shoes distributed from the Irish Marine Institute’s RV Celtic Explorer, St John’s NL, to Quebec City, Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Hamilton and Niagara.National Famine Walk 2024 completed over six days, Strokestown to Dublin docks. Liverpool’s delegation carried their Bronze Shoes.Bronze Shoes arrive in New York to greet Bronze Shoes in Dublin across the live Portal.Canada, Ireland and Transatlantic Colonialism Conference at the University of St Michael’s, Toronto: Indigenous Famine relief recognised and Bronze Shoes formally received by Toronto and Hamilton. Bronze Shoes delivered to Niagara. Australia makes contact to join the GIobal Irish Famine Way.

The compassionate reception of the Famine Irish around the world has a universal message resonant today:

“Dedicated to all those who offer hope through compassion and success through opportunity to the stranger on your shore.”

“Tiomnaithe dóibh siúd a thugann dóchas trí thaise agus rath trí dheiseanna a sholáthar don choimhthíoch a thagann chun na tíre.”

Contents:

Purpose

Project Partners

Organisation

Outcomes

Launches: Canada, Ireland, UK

Future Sites

Global Irish Famine Way Conference 2027

Appendix I – Historical Background

Appendix II National Famine Way Stages, Walk 20-25 May

Purpose

  1. Starting at the National Famine Museum, the National Famine Way is a 165km trail in Ireland that traces the footsteps of 1490 tenants from Strokestownpark, Roscommon, to Dublin in 1847 during the Great Irish Famine. It was their last journey on Irish soil. For those who survived the ordeal, it would be the first stage of their long journey to new lives as part of the Irish diaspora. Today, the National Famine Way is marked by over 30 Bronze Shoes, cast from a pair of children’s shoes found bound together in the roof of a 19th century cottage.
  • The Global Irish Famine Way extends the National Famine Way by following the journeys of all the Irish Famine emigrants around the world, including the UK, Canada, the United States, South Africa, and Australia. One million men, women and children died as a direct result of the Famine, out of a population of 8 million. Between 1.5 and 2 million left Ireland during and in the immediate aftermath of the Famine. Bronze Shoes will mark significant sites around the world, including where Famine emigrants landed, and common or mass graves where they died on their journeys. QR codes will tell the local story and connect to the National Famine Way website for more information.
  • The Global Irish Famine Way:
  • creates a physical and digital living history of the millions of Famine Irish emigrants as a significant event in the development of the Irish Diaspora and of the Famine in its own right an event of global significance;
  • connects researchers, local historians, academics and community groups around the world;
  • recovers stories and histories of the Famine emigrants as they made their epic global journey;
  • promotes public history, public awareness, universal values, shared international heritage, local engagement, research, discourses on humanitarian relief, and heritage tourism;
  • imparts a universal story more relevant than ever, a story of human agency in the face of catastrophe and of the compassion the immigrants encountered on their journeys to new futures.
  • To receive a set of Bronze Shoes, local organisations form as Global Irish Famine Way local chapters, enter into a legal agreement with an authority for the long-term maintenance of the marker, erect a plinth and install a QR code.  

Project Partners

  • The National Famine Museum, Strokestown Park (Irish Heritage Trust), the Embassy of Ireland, Ottawa, and County Councils (Roscommon, Longford, Kildare, Westmeath, Meath, Fingal, and Dublin), with academic experts, local community groups, and heritage agencies including Parks Canada and related stakeholders globally.

Organisation

  • The Global Irish Famine Way thus far has been organised by a leadership group (Caroilin Callery, Eamonn McKee and Mark McGowan) and cooperative support from local activists. Funding has been provided by local organisations and the Bronze Shoes that arrived in Canada were funded by the Emigrant Support Programme of the Department of Foreign Affairs. The leadership group plans to establish in Ireland a Global Irish Famine Way Foundation. Global Irish Famine Way local chapters are being organised by those who come forward wishing to participate to make the necessary arrangements for installation of the Bronze Shoes. Through the Consulate General in Sydney, local representatives have made contact to join the GIFW.

Outcomes

  • Anticipated outcomes include:
  • The establishment of Global Irish Famine Way (GIFW) as a physical and digital heritage trail that tells for the first time the full story of Ireland’s Famine emigrants.
  • The GIFW will be largest heritage trail in the world centred in Ireland and stretching to the Americas, South Africa and Australia.
  • Recovery of the stories, histories, and influence of the Famine emigrants, including data bases to assist in genealogical research.
  • Creation and renewal of relationships among Ireland’s global Diaspora and with Ireland.
  • Promotion of the shared heritage of the Irish Diaspora.
  • Acknowledgement of the recipient countries and communities, settler and Indigenous, for their compassionate response to the Irish humanitarian disaster, including those who gave their lives as a result;
  • Recognition of the contribution and influence of the Famine emigrants and their descendants in the countries where they made new homes and news lives;
  • Strengthening of Ireland’s network of political, business and community leaders, who trace their lineage to Famine emigrants or have an affinity with the Irish communities and culture.
  • Promotion of public discourse on responses to humanitarian crises, their causes and solutions.
  • Promotion of heritage and genealogical tourism, linking Famine sites in Ireland to related sites, communities and descendants globally.
  • Promotion of the universal message still relevant today: to the strangers on your shore, offering hope through compassion and success through opportunity.

The Voyage of the Bronze Shoes: Launch of the Global Irish Famine Way, Canada:

  1. In collaboration with the Marine Institute of Ireland, a cargo of fifteen Bronze Shoes were taken on board its research vessel, the RV Celtic Explorer on 1 May at Galway. The ship arrived at Pier 12, St John’s Newfoundland and Labrador on 8 May and was welcomed by Ambassador Eamonn McKee, National Famine Museum Director Caroilin Callery, and Professor Mark McGowan of St Michael’s College at the University of Toronto.  On 9 May,Bronze Shoes were carried by the Ambassador accompanied by a delegation to The Rooms.  This walk featured in a CBC news report.  The Bronze Shoes were displayed there and a reception was hosted by the Embassy for the Irish community, the Marine Institute, academics, and VIPs including Federal Minister Seamus O’Regan and Provincial Minister John Abbot.  On the morning of 10 May, The Bronze Shoes were carried ceremoniously to St John’s Basilica where a service of commemoration and gratitude was held, with over 300 members of the public attending along with Ministers O’Regan and Abbot.
  • Anne Walsh MC’ed the event, with opening remarks by Ambassador McKee, and a service conducted by the Most Rev. Peter Hundt, Archbishop, Roman Catholic Archdiocese of St. John’s, Rev. Pamela Jones-FitzGerald, Minister, Gower Street United Church, Most Rev. Archbishop Christopher Harper, National Anglican Indigenous Archbishop and Presiding Elder of Sacred Circle, and Bruce Templeton, Clerk of Session, St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church (The Kirk). Music was provided by Ed Kavanagh on the Irish harp, Uillean Piper David Walsh, Jacinta Mackey Graham conducting the Cathedral Basilica Choir, with Patty Fowler and John Fitzgerald on the organ.
  • Following lunch at the Bishop Mullock Library, there was a symposium on historical perspectives on the Famine at the Basilica. The service, lunch and symposium were organised by the Basilica Heritage Foundation, led by John Fitzgerald and Ann Walsh. The foundation is organising the erection of a plinth and garden at the Basilica for the installation of the Bronze Shoes and QR code.
  • Attendees at launch in St John’s took Bronze Shoes to Quebec, Ottawa, Montreal and Toronto for installations at sites including Quebec City, Grosse Île, the Black Rock at Montreal, Macdonald Gardens Park Ottawa, Middle Island, and St John (New Brunswick), Niagara, and Hamilton.
  • On 14 May, the Built Heritage Committee of Ottawa City Council held a public hearing on the proposal to place the Bronze Shoes at the common grave of 360 remains from 1847 in Macdonald Gardens Park. A spirited showing by the Irish community, with expert testimony and a large support group (including at least thirty from the Irish Seniors), resulted in approval.  The City Council voted to support the proposal on 15 May with a direction to have the memorial in place at the gravesite over the summer.

The Famine Walk: Launch of the Global Irish Famine Way, Ireland

  • Following the National Famine Commemoration Day at Edgeworthstown, County Longford, on Sunday19 May and the Canadian Wake that evening at the National Famine Museum, the Famine Walk began on 20 May at the Museum with walkers in period costume re-enacting the start of the forced migration of the 1490 Strokestown tenants. Local schoolchildren read out the names of the family groups that departed in May 1847. A core group of walkers led by Ambassador McKee and Famine Museum Director Caroilin Callery followed the route of the tenants to Dublin over the following six days.
  • This year, the annual Walk focused on promoting the launch of the Global Irish Famine Way. A delegation from Liverpool joined the group, carrying Bronze Shoes for the journey to Dublin and on to Liverpool. Canadian walkers were part of the core group and Ambassador of Canada to Ireland Nancy Smyth joined the group for two stages of the Walk. Each day, the group met with school groups who learned about the Famine, and carried the Bronze Shoes for a portion of the journey. A feature of these engagements was discussion of the Indigenous aid raised for Famine relief by the Wendat, Anishinaabe, and Haudenosaunee and upwards of 80 Canadians who lost through lives though infection assisting the Famine emigrants. Along the six-day route, local communities and leaders welcomed the group were with music, dancing, refreshments and insights into local history. In Mullingar, for example, the Walkers learned from local historian Ruth Illingworth that 100 young women were sent from the Workhouse to Quebec City in 1853.
  • In Dublin, the costumed walkers boarded the period ship Jeannie Johnston in a poignant moment. Following a programme of speakers and reception of the EPIC Museum, Caroilin Callery presented the Bronze Shoes at the Portal. On the New York side of the Portal by Vice-Consul General Gareth Hargadon and Elizabeth Stack, Executive Director of the American Irish Historical Society carried a set of Bronze Shoes. The event was a symbolic handing over of Bronze Shoes and a promise of the extension of the GIFW to the US.

Liverpool Irish Festival: Launch of the Global Irish Famine Way, UK

  • After arrival in Dublin and temporary display, the Bronze Shoes will be stored until transferred to Clarence Dock Liverpool in October where they feature at the Famine Memorial as part of the Liverpool Irish Festival between 17th and 27th of October.

Bronze Shoes:  Niagara, Toronto and Hamilton

  1. Mark McGowan conveyed Bronze Shoes from St John’s to Patrick Treacy and Declan O’Sullivan in Niagara on 23 May. The Embassy co-hosted a conference with the University of St Michael’s College at the University of Toronto entitled Canada, Ireland and Transatlantic Colonialism 28-30 May. The Conference included a dedicated session on Indigenous aid to the Famine Irish (28 May) and on 29 May a ceremonial handing over of Bronze Shoes to Robert Kearns of Toronto and Anita Ormond, Michelle Kranjc, and Laura Smith of Hamilton.

Future Launches

  1. Outreach is ongoing to establish Bronze Shoes sites in the UK, US (inter alia, Boston, New York including Manhattan and Staten Island, and Philadelphia), South Africa (Cape Town), and Australia (Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, Adelaide, and Hobart). Investigations are underway to identify Famine Irish in Argentina. Once completed, Global Irish Famine Way will represent a comprehensive profile of the Famine Irish around the world. The GIFW will be the longest heritage trail in the world.

Global Irish Famine Way Conference 2027

  1. Plans are underway for a Global Irish Famine Way Conference in 2027 (180th anniversary) hosted by the National Famine Museum with the participation of the GIFW Chapters from around the world.  

Eamonn McKee

Embassy of Ireland

Ottawa

3 June 2024

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Gratitude Event at the Irish Residence

Remarks in Honour of Indigenous Famine Relief, 1847

11 April 2024

H.E. Eamonn McKee, Ambassador of Ireland

Fáilte roimh, bienvenue, welcome, biindigen!  Distinguished visitors, guests, friends.

I want to begin by formally thanking the representatives of the Anishinaabe, Haudenosaunee and Wendat nations who gave us aid in the worst year of the long history of the Irish, 1847. They saw our refugees arrive on these shores and river banks, stricken and starving. They collected food for those already here.  They collected money to send to Ireland.  That act of compassion, of agency in the face a catastrophe that had befallen another people, shines out from the pages of history.  Go raibh míle maith agaibh! Thank you! Merci! Kitchi Megwitch.

That page in our shared history would have remained closed were it not for the story keepers and on this occasion the story finders.  I want to acknowledge Jason King, historian at the National Famine Museum and Professor Mark McGowan for not only finding this story but for promoting it. Their efforts have shone a light on this page of history and led this event and other events of gratitude and commemoration for the historic support of our Indigenous friends.

I want to acknowledge Jason King, the Museum and the Irish Heritage Trust for inspiring these events. I want to sincerely thank the team at the Embassy, particularly Anna McCready, for organising this event at the Residence.  She’s done a magnificent job.

Thank you to Ross Davison for his wonderful music on the Uilleann pipes and to Two-Spirit David Charette for his powerful singing and drumming.

As always, to Anishinaabe Elder and Chancellor of the University of Ottawa, Claudette Commanda, your land acknowledgement and words were beautiful and inspiring.

In gratitude and commemoration, we are planting a copse of River Birch here at the Irish Residence. We could not think of a more appropriate symbol of thanks for this occasion. It is a native species, one used often to sustain lndigenous life, like the birch bark and resin used to make the emblematic canoe. The gardener, Ian Lawford, who planted the first one told me that by the time he had begun to plant the second tree, a small bird had landed on the first one to watch him.  I like to think this was a good omen. I want to thank Ian and his team for the great job that Urban Tree Works have done.  We look forward to seeing this copse grow in the years to come, just as we look forward to the growth of our relationship with our Indigenous friends.

In May, we are launching the Global Irish Famine Way.  It is a heritage trail that will mark the passage of Irish famine emigrants in Britain and Canada, and later in the US, South Africa and Australia, even as far as Tasmania. With QR codes, it will be both a physical and a digital telling of this story, one of agency and resilience in the face of catastrophe, in the main man-made.

Each location will have a set of Bronze Shoes, cast from a pair found in the thatched roof of a 19th century cottage in Ireland. They were bound together and hidden as if to say that though we may depart, we remain bound to our home.

One plinth will mark the grave of some 300 Irish famine refugees who died here in Ottawa and lie somewhere in Macdonald Gardens Park.  Ottawa City Council will vote on a very strong motion of support for this on 1 May.

We also plan to put a plinth and Bronze Shoes here in this Birch copse to tell the story of the help we got from our Indigenous friends and allies. 

The Global Irish Famine Way will be dedicated to all those who gave hope through compassion and success through opportunity to the strangers on their shores.

To me, this sums up the philosophy of the Indigenous, demonstrated not just in 1847 but throughout history and sustained to this day.

Thank you.

Go raibh míle maith agaibh. Kitchi megwetch

Embassy of Ireland

Ottawa

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How the County Meath brothers Richard and Arthur Reshaped the British Empire East and West

Richard was the older of the two brothers. The Colleys had been in Ireland for many generations when his grandfather changed the name to Wesley on inheriting the Dangan estate from his cousin Garrett Wesley. Richard was born in Dangan Castle in 1760 and would adopt Wellesley as his surname when he was 29, as would his brother Arthur.

After 17 years in the Houses of Commons and Lords, and in Government, Richard was appointed Governor General of India in 1797. After seven months at sea, Richard Colley Wellesley arrived in Calcutta: he “would change the history of India as much as Napoleon would change that of France; indeed, though his name is largely forgotten today, in the next seven years he would conquer more territory in India and more quickly, than Napoleon conquered in Europe.’ The quote (p. 335) is from William Dalrymple’s magnificent page-turner The Anarchy, The East India Company, Corporate Violence, and The Pillage of an Empire. Revealingly, the chapter is called ‘The Corpse of India’.

Richard’s aim was to displace his employers, the East India Company (EIC), with British government control over all of India and to oust the French (p. 337). In achieving this, through divide and conquer, and with a massive investment in the EIC’s private army, Richard laid the foundation for the British Raj. As Dalrymple writes, by the end of his tenure, Richard was the real emperor, with 600 professional civil servants, and a well trained army of 155,000. His king had gained an additional 50 million subjects. London was largely unaware of what Richard had done. Richard had concealed it from his nominal bosses in the EIC. The Government was focused on the threat from Napoleon (whose failed Egyptian campaign ended any French hopes of challenging for control of India), ‘But within India everyone knew that a major revolution had just taken place…The sinews of British supremacy were now established. With the exception of a few months during the Great Uprising of 1857, for better or worse, India would remain in British hands for another 144 years, finally gaining its freedom only in August 1847.’ (p.382)

It had taken cunning and courage to be sure. Richard’s brother Arthur, a major general, faced off against two Maratha armies in August 1803, the dominant power in the western Deccan plateau. The Maratha’s had learned European methods of warfare and had well used French mercenaries like the brilliant general Benoit de Boigne to train their infantry and artillery. In the ferocious battle of Assaye, Arthur had two horses shot from under him, staff officers killed near him as grape shot flew all around. A horse still carried its headless dragoon as Arthur forged the Khelna river. Dalrymple’s thrilling account (pp 369-372) records the bloody outcome of Arthur’s victory, his first ‘close-run thing’: 6,000 dead Marathas and one third of Arthur’s army, 1,584 out of 4,500 troops. General Lake’s conquest of Delhi in September sealed India’s fate: impoverishment as Britain plundered its wealth and shipped its global textile hegemony to Britain.

As I have written here previously, Arthur would reshape Canada in the wake of the US’s failed invasion attempt in the War of 1812. He determined to fortify Canada believing that it was the bulwark of the British Empire, graphically illustrated when Napoleon cut off Baltic timber from the British navy. In 1804, Henry Caldwell, from Fermanagh who had fought with the distinction against the French in Canada, persuaded Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville, the Lord of the Admiralty, that Canadian timber could provide for Royal Navy what it had formerly secured in the Baltic. The Canadian lumber industry was born and Caldwell along with his wife’s nephew George Hamilton (from Dunboyne) would make their fortunes as lumber barons in respectively Quebec and the Ottawa Valley. Arthur had a point about Canada: even in the twentieth century Churchill imagined taking the Royal Navy to Halifax should Hitler succeed in conquering England.

The careers of both Richard and Arthur came together over the infamous Koh-i-Noor diamond. I cannot recommend highly enough http://www.empirepod.com by Anita Anand and William Dalrymple. The four podcast episodes about the diamond combine as enthralling story-telling. The massive diamond was swiped from India and given to Queen Victoria. Uncut, it was a major disappointment to the crowds that came to see it at the Great Exhibition in 1851. Though warned that a flaw would split it, Prince Albert decided to have it cut and polished using a bespoke steam-powered grindstone. The honor of the first pass went to Arthur, the hero of Waterloo, Duke of Wellington. The process split the diamond in half, though the final product was still the size of a duck egg. Queen Victoria often wore it as a broach. It is today part of the crown of Elizabeth the Queen Mother. India, along with Pakistan and even the Taliban, demand its return.

Eamonn

Ottawa

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A First Trip to The Bahamas and Jamaica

Delayed for two years by the pandemic and having presented my credentials virtually, I finally made my first official trip to two of my accreditations, The Bahamas and Jamaica.  This was very much a case of familiarization but also to see if I could identify areas for cooperation and possibly to generate some projects with good outputs in a reasonable span of time.  Ireland wants to step up its game in the region.  More on that later. First some observations.

The Bahamas is an islands’ nation.  There is an inescapable interplay between the land and sea. The sea is everywhere physically but the maritime percolates the culture and outlook of Bahamians.  Like the Aran Islands, the terrain of The Bahamas offers little fertility. Perched not far above the water line, the seas are sapphire and cobalt, the beaches ivory, and the land rocky and green.  The Indigenous Lucayan population, possibly 30,000 strong, were unfortunate to be the first to encounter Christopher Columbus.  The rest, as they say, is history.  Certainly it was history for the Indigenous there as most were wiped out by disease and slavery.

Not fit for sugar plantations and therefore the oppressions of colonialism and racism, the society that grew there comprised pirates and escaped slaves, free booters and fishermen, those seeking freedom of religion or just freedom. That The Bahamas is a nation at all is a miracle of resilience and hope. Yet its perilously low-lying land means that climate change is an existential threat. 

Jamaica is a hunk of mountains in the sea.  Less like The Bahamas and more like Ireland, Jamaica can be seen more accurately as a country surrounded by the sea rather than an island.  I remembered, in my student days in Ireland, a friend saying in frustration that she needed to get off the island.  What island is she talking about, I wondered. With the seventh largest natural harbour in the world, clouds rolling in that catch in the Blue Mountains, the influence of the sea is never far away.  However, my sense is that Jamaicans’ perspective is landward, tracing the mountain passes to the parishes, towns and villages of the interior.  Ireland and Jamaica both share not just brio and sociability but a ferocious sense of survival and therefore identity.  We both have outsized cultural influence beyond our shores.

Ireland is lucky to have William Mills as our Honorary Consul in The Bahamas, supported by his wife Wendy.  Like I say about my wife Mary, they are the unpaid half of the diplomatic team. Bill organized a lunch at the club at Lyford Cay for Irish business contacts where we discussed trade opportunities. (The exclusive club was founded by Canadian tycoon E.P. Taylor whose ancestors came from Ireland).  And he convened a reception that I hosted for the Irish community, small and resilient like The Bahamians themselves. They all had taken different routes to new lives in The Bahamas, not unexpectedly, but all agreed it was a hard place to leave.

The Honorary Consuls of The Bahamas hosted a lunch.  I was seated with the Foreign Minister Fred Mitchell, the US chargé Usha Pitts and the British High Commissioner Tom Hartley.  It was great to get their insights on The Bahamas and the politics of the Caribbean. In his skillful extempore remarks to the assembled diplomats, the Minister spoke about a range of issues, including the meeting of Caricom hosted by The Bahamas only days previously and where Prime Minister Trudeau was a keynote speaker.  However, the deteriorating situation in Haiti was a major concern.  He appealed for the international community to pay attention and assist, wisely noting that this was not about a solution, but improving the situation incrementally and putting Haiti on the right track.  In conversation, Minister Mitchell told me he’d often been to Ireland because of a close family connection.  He is a passionate Joycean too. I briefed him on our plans for region.

On these kinds of trips, it is always useful just to wander around.  Left hand drive cars from America drive on the left hand side of the road: a metaphor for enduring Bahamian links to the British crown and the economic influence of its gigantic neighbor. The capital Nassau has charm, bustling between 11am and 3pm when four or five gigantic cruise ships unload their mainly American passengers.  The Bahamians are building new port facilities and aim to keep these tourists at least overnight. I’m sure the guys at the one Irish bar, Shenanigans, would appreciate that development!

National galleries often offer insights and the National Gallery did not disappoint.  Housed in a colonial mansion built by one William Doyle, the gallery was devoted to a magnificent exhibition of the art of Antonius Roberts, the country’s leading artist. Brimming with multi-media work, its theme was sacred space.  The exhibition was suffused with images and installations about place and nature, the sea and sand, light and colour, natural catastrophe and human resilience.

After slingshot flights to Miami and then Jamaica’s capital city Kingston, we were met by our Honorary Consul there, Brian Denning and his wife Kay.  Again, we are so lucky to have them represent Ireland in Jamaica.  Brian has handled some really difficult consular cases in recent years, with great sensitivity and effectiveness.  His network of contacts is unrivalled.

Brian and Kay toured us around Kingston, offering insights into Jamaica’s history.  We passed by Sabina Park where Ireland’s cricket team famously beat Pakistan in 2007.  Sabina Park was an enslaved woman whose remains lie somewhere there.  A slave on Goat Island where the brutality of the regime prompted a high suicide rate, she killed her four-month-old infant son rather than have him enslaved to work for whites.  She was hanged of course, and died a hero to other slaves for her implacable resistance.  Sabina was the slave of Joseph Gordon, a Scottish plantation owner who had eight children with another slave, Ann Rattray.  Gordon gave freedom to a son, George William.  George William Gordon became a successful businessman, politician, and advocate for the poor and for Jamaican freedom.  He was executed after the Mordant Bay Rebellion in 1865 and declared a National Hero in 1969.

Jamaica faces many challenges as a developing nation but the vision and effectiveness of its government is impressive.  Unemployment is at an all-time low of 6.6%, inflation is tracking downward, and the Government has dramatically lowered its debt to GDP ratio.  I could only be there for some of Jamaica’s diplomatic week along with a host of other ambassadors, resident and non-resident, and High Commissioners.  The speeches and Q and A by Prime Minister Andrew Holness, Minister for Foreign Affairs and Trade Kamina Johnson Smith, and Minister for Tourism, Edmund Bartlett, were all clear slighted and ambitious, delivered with depth of knowledge and assurance. Both the Prime Minister and Foreign Minister had just returned from a visit to Haiti, again underlining their concern about the crisis and the need for international support.

With leadership like that, you have to be confident about Jamaica’s future.  As only the second nation (after Haiti) to emerge from a former slave colony, Jamaica’s journey is remarkable.  Last year, Jamaica celebrated its 60th anniversary as an independent nation. As for relations with the British crown, the Prime Minister and Foreign Minister want to ensure that all stakeholders, including the Opposition, join them on the road to becoming a republic.

The mountains of both Jamaica and Ireland played roles in our history as refuges for rebels.  Recall Redmond O’Hanlon around Slieve Gullion, or the men of 1798 taking to the fastness of Wicklow. Maroon communities of escaped slaves formed communities in the Jamaican mountains.  The Leeward Maroons such successful guerrilla fighters that the British signed a deal with them in 1739. Along with Captain Cudjoe, another Maroon leader was Nanny, a legend and heroine of Jamaica. History is complicated and the alliance with the British, including an obligation to returned runaway slaves, rankles other Jamaicans. To this day, the Maroons have cohesive communities and ambitions for the future.  No problem with that, as Foreign Minister Johnson Smith noted, within the territorial integrity and sovereignty of Jamaica.  Like Ireland, Jamaica has to manage the long influence of its colonial past along with its other challenges. 

I had a very productive bilateral meeting with Minister Johnson Smith, which was substantive and full of opportunities to develop our relationship.  Suffice to say, there is plenty of follow-up both with HQ and in another visit I am planning.  My message to the Minister, as it has been to Foreign Minister Mitchell in The Bahamas, was that Ireland had a new strategy for the Caribbean, we were setting up an Office of the Caribbean at our Consulate General in Miami, and we wanted to support our partners in the region on such vital issues as the Small Island Developing States agenda.

I hosted a reception for the Irish community, drawn together by Brian and Kay.  We were able to engage with all of the guests, some of whom had come from Montego Bay and elsewhere to join us.  It is always amazing how small the world is, at least for the Irish.  I met someone who knew colleagues and shared acquaintances not just back in Dublin but in Toronto. “By the way, do you know my aunt in Toronto…?”  Know her?  I did a podcast with her! 

At the Irish community reception, I also met Veronica Salters, known as Ronnie, a doyen of the Irish who had lived most of her long life in Jamaica.  Her mission was to engage my interest in Jamaica’s Irish heritage, notably the role of the reforming Governor General, Marquess Sligo, Henry Browne, whose journals and papers are in Kingston.  Sligo had been keen to accelerate the transition from slavery to freedom in his time there between 1834 and 1836, earning the ire of the plantation owners, some of whom simply murdered their slaves rather than let them free.  They forced his resignation.  Yes, she had my interest, and a project is taking shape.

Indeed, I kept picking up references to Jamaica’s Irish heritage.  Jamaica was England’s second experiment in plantation after Ireland.  Cromwellians threw the Spanish out of Jamaica in 1655 and promptly deported defeated Catholic Irish there to work plantations as indentured labour. There are plenty of Irish placenames, like Dublin Castle, Irish Town, Clonmel and even a Sligoville in honour of the man himself. If you go to the market today to buy potatoes, you say you want some Irish to distinguish it from ‘potato’ which refers to a sweet potato.  Folk traditions are heavily influenced by the Irish. A quarter of Jamaicans have some Irish ancestry. I am sure that the more I look, the more I will find. Our shared colonialism has woven a dense tapestry of historical and living interconnections.

I returned to Ottawa to promote those very interconnections between Ireland and Canada with the Fifty Irish Lives project.  I now have some sense of both The Bahamas and Jamaica so reading about them will be more meaningful.  Plans are underway to visit my two new accreditations in the Caribbean, St Lucia and Antigua and Barbuda.  I was assigned them in a new divvy up of Caribbean accreditations.  This is part of our efforts to bring more focus to our diplomatic presence.  Interesting times ahead for Ireland’s relations with our partners in the Caribbean.

Eamonn McKee

Ambassador to Canada, The Bahamas and Jamaica

Ottawa

7 March 2023

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